Designer of the Month: Brandy Nicole Easter

Cats have gorgeous coats of their own, but few people would think of drawing fashion inspiration from the creatures themselves. Brandy Nicole Easter, an American designer who has lived in London for five years, created The Cat Reclaimer Collection, featuring creatively fun pieces to match the name. The cozy cat-printed clothes have also inspired some of the most visually interesting photographs in the sustainable fashion industry. I took a moment to learn more about the young designer and how her love for animals and the environment has brought her collection to life.

Krystle: Where are you from, and how do you think your background has influenced your creativity?

Brandy: I am from a very, very hot place in America called Phoenix, Arizona! There are so many different things that lead to me being a creative and visual thinker. Most important of these things would be my artsy grandmother who taught me how to sew & knit, my mother who always told me not to care what anyone thought of the way I dressed, and moving to the desert at 9 years old where I felt weird as a teenager and got to see some of the most amazing landscapes in the world! Plus, I think the lack of clothes people wear in Phoenix due to shear heat really put me off and thus I seem to design with a lot of layers and extra details.

Krystle: When did you begin designing?

Brandy: Probably without realizing it around the age of four, I started drawing, in particular ladies, and would make clothes for dolls. At 13, I started to understand that I had been drawing ladies for a reason and wanted to learn how to make clothes properly. By 14, I knew I wanted to study fashion at university!

Krystle: I love how funky your collections are! What makes cats so special to you, and what role do they play in your designs?

Brandy: Thank you so much! My entire life has been surrounded by cats whether at my house, my aunts', my sister's, we are kind of obsessed with cats in my family. However, I usually try not to combine these strange obsessions with designing as I had always found it an overwhelming idea to be influenced by something so close to me. All of the research I did prior to designing my collection kept leading to cats though and I kept denying it until I had a little encouragement as well as discovering a great documentary called Cat Ladies! It was so inspiring to see that, actually, my obsession wasn't so bad and these ladies are a bit mad, yet had this really interesting, effortless, but weird style. Now that I have designed around these ladies and used my own two cats as a print for my collection I feel like my cats and maybe all cats should be on clothes! In fact a lot of my own t-shirts and my friend's t-shirts have become covered in my print so it's slowly taking over my wardrobe and other people's too!

Krystle: If you hadn’t designed around cats, which animal would you choose to base a collection on?

Brandy: I have designed with rabbits before but I think if I wanted to choose a new animal it would be a battle between giraffes and guinea pigs! They are both too cute! Maybe I should combine them!

Krystle: Do you have a favorite piece of yours that you wear often? If so, what makes that one special?

Brandy: My favorite piece that I wear a lot is probably the pink and blue shorts that look like skirts. They are special to me because the blue is a fabric from my dear friend Chrysteena and the pink have my two cats all over them and they are extremely comfortable and practical, which is very important to me. I am obsessed with clothes that have pockets!

Krystle: Where do you find your reclaimed materials? Is it difficult to work with any of the fabrics?

Brandy: I find them all over, really. A lot came from my grandmother who had loads of fabric from the 60s/70s that she had never used so it was in perfect condition. I also got donations from family and friends including old bed sheets, couch covers, old clothes and more- all washed of course! I used my own old clothes and fabrics I had collected over the years.  Very few of the fabrics were 'new' but the ones which were, were all end of line materials. Even the inks I used to paint and print were old! It was difficult to use some of the fabrics as there wasn't much of some materials so I had to design around them and just be super careful when making so that I didn't destroy anything that I couldn't obtain more of. I don't see these challenges as a bad thing at all though, and I think it's a part of my design process and can't imagine having all of the fabrics I could dream of at my fingertips. I prefer this limited selection that pushes me to think more.

Krystle: In what ways do you hope to grow as a designer?

Brandy: Well at the moment I am working as a designer for From Somewhere which is a brand that reclaims fabric so it's the perfect job for me. Being so young, I think I don't want to start my own label making seasonal collections just yet. Especially because I feel like there are so many brands in London and around the world I don't really want to join the massive crowd at the moment. Although, I am selling my accessories online, doing custom orders, and working on a print project with some friends in our spare time. So I suppose to actually answer this question I hope to learn from my current job as much as possible, stay as long as I can (as long as they will let me!), and hopefully start my own label and also begin a label I started with my friend called Cynthia Branford!!! I hope it isn't asking too much! They all boil down to creating sustainable clothes in the end.

Krystle: What should we expect from you in the future? More cats, different animals, or something entirely different?

Brandy: In the future I would say it will definitely be a lot more cats but with guest appearances of other animals and ideally plants and other objects. I love illustrating so anything with a print all over it. Also, I'd like to design more practical clothes. I have a dream of designing the perfect 100% water proof rain coat so that is something you will see in the future as I am so determined to make it! What would you like to see?! =^ . ^=

Photo Credit: Hannah Slaney

Find more cats here: Brandy Nicole Easter

Designer of the Month: Naomi Bailey-Cooper

I didn't just choose Naomi Bailey-Cooper as my October designer of the month because she has a Crystal Collection (although I do love that fact). Naomi is an extraordinarily talented young designer, with a half fashion, half science approach. She is just out of university, but not at all short of experience and expertise. Even though I was very much a dreamer at 17, I would have never imagined being able to create an entire collection in a short span of time to show at a fashion show hosted by me. But, Naomi is just that amazing. From there, she's gone on to work in some of the most fashionable cities in the world, including two of my favorites - Milan and Paris. A sponsorship from Swarovski helped showcase her aptly titled collection, Crystal as a fascinating comparison between man-made and organic. I had the opportunity to learn more about the innovative designer and her interesting work with sustainable materials and crystal growth.

Krystle: Where are you from and what’s your fashion background?

Naomi: I was born in the Cotswolds and moved to London when I was 18 to do an art foundation at The London College of Fashion. I decided then that I really wanted to do my BA at Central Saint Martins. But, not getting in the first time, I ended up going to Middlesex University. After two terms I knew it was the wrong place for me so I left, did some work experience and short courses and reapplied to Central St Martins. When they accepted me I was so happy, as I had begun to feel like it was the only place where I could explore my particular style.  Taking the 4 year degree option meant I could do the placement year which was probably the best year of my studies. I spent the year in Milan, New York and Paris and had some really good and some not so good experiences, but I learnt a lot, saw some of the world and met great and inspiring people.

Krystle: At what moment did you know you were going to be a designer?

Naomi: It was when I was 17 that I suddenly became obsessed with fashion design. Not having much awareness of the industry before that, I only knew that I wanted to do something creative. I remember I had been ill and was going through a bad time when my mum bought me a fashion magazine to read in bed to try and lift my spirits. That was it, within two months I had designed and made 25 outfits and put on my own catwalk show by myself. I made about £600 profit through ticket sales and used that money to pay for a short course at Central Saint Martins.

Krystle: As a recent graduate and young designer, what sort of aspirations do you have for the fashion industry?

Naomi: Since graduating, I’ve realized that I don’t really want to be a fashion designer as such.  As a 17-year-old, I fell in love with designers like John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gaultier. I know the names are a very clichéd, but I find designers of that generation really wanted to do something that had never been seen before.  My feelings are that the industry has changed within about the last year and a half and it’s currently not the right platform for what I want to do. I have always been very absorbed with real innovation and future design rather than just making clothes for the sake of it. I suppose my aspirations for the fashion industry would be for it to engage with scientific and technological advances, just as other design disciplines are doing.

Krystle: Your designs are very gorgeous and dramatic. How would you describe the Crystal Collection? Who is it made for?

Naomi: Thank you! For me, the original statement I wanted to make was luxurious sustainability. I was cautious not to make clothes that used sustainability as its main selling point; instead the aesthetic appeal had to be its selling point. It had to offer something extra. To me, it didn’t make sense that there were all these brand new sustainable materials coming out that were completely bespoke and very expensive, but they weren’t being used by the companies who actually want bespoke fabrics and could afford it. For example, making clothes out of the wool from a British rare breed is very sustainable because it encourages the preservation of that breed. The materials are rare and very luxurious and to me, these are the selling points of couture.  

So I created a collection of six outfits which were largely all hand sewn, and really exploited that word ‘couture’ and what it meant. Taking the idea of one-off, I wanted to create completely bespoke embellishments. I grew my own crystals straight onto fabric using aluminium sulphate – for me it was also a design solution when thinking ‘how could you attach embellishments without sewing them on?’ I wanted the collection to be able to biodegrade, so all the materials – from the fabric itself to the fastenings and thread are made from natural materials. It was a nightmare sourcing all these things! I remember sending my helpers out many times to try and source a concealed zip which didn’t include any synthetic parts. Luckily, most of my collection was sponsored so it wasn’t expensive for me; I only ended up spending about £1000.

Krystle: You seem to be using such innovative methods for sustainable fashion. Tell me more about working with wild peace silk and crystal growth.

Naomi: Actually, the material I really wanted to use for my collection was spider silk, but it was still in development. Instead the collection is made from reclaimed duchess satin, as well as bamboo and wild peace silk. The embellishment is mostly my own grown crystals, but I incorporated Swarovski elements who were one of my sponsors. I had dreamed of sponsorship from them ever since my placement year, and felt that in the collection, it really highlighted the difference between the man made and the organic. It was wonderful working with such luxury embellishments and I made sure I used every single Swarovski stone I was given – literally! 

My own grown crystals were very temperamental; I had to create a specific environment and temperature as well as precise chemical measurements. I really needed a lab environment to get them to their full potential.  Instead I grew them in my bedroom, half poisoning myself! The wild peace silk itself was also a nightmare because it was from India and the orders kept being translated incorrectly. In the end I had to find a different supplier last minute for most of it. Plus, a lot of these fabrics, especially the reclaimed ones, wouldn’t take natural dye well. I didn’t know at all what I would end up with in the end and had to just make do, but in a way I didn’t mind it being so ad-hoc, although it was stressful at times the whole point was that it was organic.

Krystle: Have you discovered many other designers working with these materials?

Naomi: No not really. I know that designers such as Lanvin and the PPR (Gucci group) have recently been making some things for the red carpet with luxury sustainable fabrics. From a scientific point of view regarding my crystals, there are people like Helen Storey and Suzanne Lee who work developing fashion through biological sciences.

Krystle: Can we get a hint on what you plan to unveil within the next year?

Naomi: I’m currently developing some materials using microbiology and looking at genetically engineered plants. It is with a view to it being used practically in the design industries so it is still very early days and needs further scientific collaboration and funding. I’m planning to continue onto postgraduate research study within the next year, so I suppose what I’d unveil would be my research project title.

Visit her website here: http://naomibaileycooper.com/

African Inspired Look:

Out for Coffee by fashionandtea featuring platform shoes

FAIR true printed top, £75
Silk skirt, $206
Platform shoes, $48
Mar Y Sol clutch handbag, $85

Designer of the Month: Meihui Liu, Victim Fashion Street

Reminiscent of a girl’s most playfully adorable childhood dresses, it’s easy to get lost in the dreamy creations of Meihui Liu—Victorian lace, frilly edges, and reconstructed romance. The Taiwan-born designer created Victim Fashion Street in 2000 from her love for vintage and crafty ability to produce hand sewn pieces. After attending fashion school in Paris, Meihui came to London in 2001 and opened her shop on Fashion Street, right off of Brick Lane. Since then, Victim Fashion Street has been on the catwalks of off-schedule London Fashion Week shows, drawing the attention of buyers from New York, Berlin, Hong Kong, Japan, and France. Meihui created two separate customized ranges for high-street retailer TopShop, was selected to participate in the promotion of British fashion in China, and constructed an exhibition inspired by childhood memories of playing dress up. After moving from Fashion Street to the West End, Meihui took a break from the busy fashion industry to have her daughter, Freya. Spending the last two years only catering to her usual clients, Meihui is now back, reinvigorated and ready to continue her commitment to eco-fashion, sustainability, and creative upcycling. After debuting at London Fashion Week’s Estethica, I had the chance to chat with her to find out what direction she’s heading in.

Krystle: It must be great to be back! How was your first time showcasing at London Fashion Week? What did you do to prepare?

Meihui: It was a very good experience. I knew two months before, that I was accepted, so I spent lots of time in my studio preparing. I went through so many of my leftover pieces in my studio and searched for new fabrics that were left over in factories, and vintage items to create lots of one-off pieces and accessories.

Krystle: Did you create a line specifically for autumn/winter?

Meihui: I’ve never gone by seasons for my collections. I know a few designers like that. We don’t let seasons and trends define our designs.

Krystle: How did buyers and press receive you at the event?

Meihui: I had many direct customers looking for items for themselves, not necessarily huge store orders. I had a lot of interest from press. It’s better for press to see my collections at the exhibition than on the catwalk—there they can touch the clothes and learn more about them, instead of seeing them for 15 minutes on the runway.

Krystle: So, where do you go from here? What’s your inspiration moving forward?

Meihui: The fabric I find is my inspiration. I never read fashion magazines, and I don’t let others influence me. Recycled vintage fabric is the part I love. I love its originality. I don’t like to make something that is the same as other people. It’s also really important for me to have things made in the UK, to support local small factories.

Krystle: How does your daughter inspire you? 

Meihui: I always wanted to have a daughter, so before I gave birth, I started to collect pieces and couldn't wait to make things for her. Since she was born, I’ve only made recycled, organic cotton dresses for her and the rest out of simple cloth to wear around the house or to sleep.

Lots of people ask me to make baby collections but I don't have much time, so apart for making dresses for her, I don't think I will make a children’s collection. 

Krystle: How would you describe your latest collections, and what can we expect to see in 2012?

Meihui: My latest collections, apart from some pieces (the dark antique lace crochet dress and vintage scarf, and the vintage union jack dress) have a very strong look. Everything is like fairy tale meets punk and Goth style. And for 2012, I will keep working on my fashion, art and textile fairy tale project. 

Visit Victim Fashion Street's website for more: http://www.victimfashionst.com/home.htm

Ecoluxe London

I tend to have favorites at these trade shows. Some designers create such irresistable pieces. At the intimate ethical fashion showroom for Ecoluxe, it was Gracia Woman that caught my eye. The luxury brand very was successful at the show, attracting the interests of UK and international press and buyers. The Spanish label displayed a rack of rich, dark denim in both trousers and skirts, handmade espadrilles with recycled material, and tailored coats for both work and play. Some of the coats were even lined with cactus filaments, which excited the desert girl in me. Gracia Woman has so many ethical elements to its production, which makes wearing the clothes feel even better. Their items are made in the UK, with organic material, and supporting small communities. Plus, the thick Scottish tweed will keep you nice and cosy, and the ribbons laced through the espadrilles will make your tootsies pretty.

This is just a glimpse...find more collections on their website: http://www.graciawoman.com/

London Fashion Week

African Fashionistas:

Estethica:

Other Finds:

The Good Fashion Show

Spread out across the beautiful buildings of the London House at Goodenough College, The Good Fashion Show lit up in its first year as an ethical fashion event for buyers, press, and the public. The off schedule London Fashion Week event featured the talents of emerging and established designers, along with vintage sellers at a day-long exhibition yesterday. There was a diverse range of exhibitors, including handmade, knitted winter wear, truly vintage teacups, luxury label z-mode debuting their black and white collection, hand-crafted Ghanaian accessories, and breathtaking gowns and structured jackets, inspired by the Victorian era. The beautiful gowns were my favorite! The dress that caught my eye was a long, flowing gown made out of upcycled curtains (over on the right). The designer also had a top on show with velvet down to the midsection, then wrapped with a rehab corset (like a back brace) and shredded wash cloths that he found at a car wash, dangling on the bottom. A structured jacket was made out of a potato sack, and tied with fisherman string. They were created by a young designer, who grew up in a Turkish village, and learned how to literally make the best with what he had around him.  

 Daytime photos:

Designer Tuncer Tonun with potato sack jacket

Designer Tuncer Tonun with upcycled gown

Vintage teaware alongside other exhibitors

Vintage teacup...so cute!

The evening show dazzled ethical fashion lovers, but more so in terms of performance than as a fashion show. It was held in a grand regal room, with red velvet curtains and wooden chairs lined in the shape of a U, around the catwalk. I attended the champagne reception for press, which was pretty nice. Once everyone was seated, the catwalk show opened with soulful singer and pianist, Omar, who has worked with Erykah Badu and Stevie Wonder. Music was a big part of the show, but not like a typical catwalk show play booming, provocative music, but there was a live indie band that played throughout. Some of the first looks to hit the runway were both simple and obscure, and the main highlight of the bunch was a short black dress with long lace, exposing the model's butt cheeks. After seeing an incredible contortionist and other performances during catwalk breaks, and more ethical looks that weren't entirely impressive, it was the finale of feathery skirts and dresses over tutus, the gowns of my favorite designer, and a gorgeous bubble wrap dress that made the show! 

Evening photos:

This was the back of a girl's sweater at the show. My black & white dress is in the reflection :)

The contortionist! Amazing!

Bubble wrap dress. Incredible, I know.

Pretty, pretty