Mich Dulce Designs Creative, Wearable Hats

Mich Dulce was one of the sustainable designers at London Fashion Week's Estethica in September. I've selected some of my favorites from her Spring/Summer 2013 collection, which draws inspiration from flowers and nature. I hardly ever wear hats, especially ones as fancy as these, but since I've discovered this designer, I've been creating events in my mind that I must attend wearing one.

All images from Mich Dulce. Visit her website to see more of her creations.

Designer of the Month: Brandy Nicole Easter

Cats have gorgeous coats of their own, but few people would think of drawing fashion inspiration from the creatures themselves. Brandy Nicole Easter, an American designer who has lived in London for five years, created The Cat Reclaimer Collection, featuring creatively fun pieces to match the name. The cozy cat-printed clothes have also inspired some of the most visually interesting photographs in the sustainable fashion industry. I took a moment to learn more about the young designer and how her love for animals and the environment has brought her collection to life.

Krystle: Where are you from, and how do you think your background has influenced your creativity?

Brandy: I am from a very, very hot place in America called Phoenix, Arizona! There are so many different things that lead to me being a creative and visual thinker. Most important of these things would be my artsy grandmother who taught me how to sew & knit, my mother who always told me not to care what anyone thought of the way I dressed, and moving to the desert at 9 years old where I felt weird as a teenager and got to see some of the most amazing landscapes in the world! Plus, I think the lack of clothes people wear in Phoenix due to shear heat really put me off and thus I seem to design with a lot of layers and extra details.

Krystle: When did you begin designing?

Brandy: Probably without realizing it around the age of four, I started drawing, in particular ladies, and would make clothes for dolls. At 13, I started to understand that I had been drawing ladies for a reason and wanted to learn how to make clothes properly. By 14, I knew I wanted to study fashion at university!

Krystle: I love how funky your collections are! What makes cats so special to you, and what role do they play in your designs?

Brandy: Thank you so much! My entire life has been surrounded by cats whether at my house, my aunts', my sister's, we are kind of obsessed with cats in my family. However, I usually try not to combine these strange obsessions with designing as I had always found it an overwhelming idea to be influenced by something so close to me. All of the research I did prior to designing my collection kept leading to cats though and I kept denying it until I had a little encouragement as well as discovering a great documentary called Cat Ladies! It was so inspiring to see that, actually, my obsession wasn't so bad and these ladies are a bit mad, yet had this really interesting, effortless, but weird style. Now that I have designed around these ladies and used my own two cats as a print for my collection I feel like my cats and maybe all cats should be on clothes! In fact a lot of my own t-shirts and my friend's t-shirts have become covered in my print so it's slowly taking over my wardrobe and other people's too!

Krystle: If you hadn’t designed around cats, which animal would you choose to base a collection on?

Brandy: I have designed with rabbits before but I think if I wanted to choose a new animal it would be a battle between giraffes and guinea pigs! They are both too cute! Maybe I should combine them!

Krystle: Do you have a favorite piece of yours that you wear often? If so, what makes that one special?

Brandy: My favorite piece that I wear a lot is probably the pink and blue shorts that look like skirts. They are special to me because the blue is a fabric from my dear friend Chrysteena and the pink have my two cats all over them and they are extremely comfortable and practical, which is very important to me. I am obsessed with clothes that have pockets!

Krystle: Where do you find your reclaimed materials? Is it difficult to work with any of the fabrics?

Brandy: I find them all over, really. A lot came from my grandmother who had loads of fabric from the 60s/70s that she had never used so it was in perfect condition. I also got donations from family and friends including old bed sheets, couch covers, old clothes and more- all washed of course! I used my own old clothes and fabrics I had collected over the years.  Very few of the fabrics were 'new' but the ones which were, were all end of line materials. Even the inks I used to paint and print were old! It was difficult to use some of the fabrics as there wasn't much of some materials so I had to design around them and just be super careful when making so that I didn't destroy anything that I couldn't obtain more of. I don't see these challenges as a bad thing at all though, and I think it's a part of my design process and can't imagine having all of the fabrics I could dream of at my fingertips. I prefer this limited selection that pushes me to think more.

Krystle: In what ways do you hope to grow as a designer?

Brandy: Well at the moment I am working as a designer for From Somewhere which is a brand that reclaims fabric so it's the perfect job for me. Being so young, I think I don't want to start my own label making seasonal collections just yet. Especially because I feel like there are so many brands in London and around the world I don't really want to join the massive crowd at the moment. Although, I am selling my accessories online, doing custom orders, and working on a print project with some friends in our spare time. So I suppose to actually answer this question I hope to learn from my current job as much as possible, stay as long as I can (as long as they will let me!), and hopefully start my own label and also begin a label I started with my friend called Cynthia Branford!!! I hope it isn't asking too much! They all boil down to creating sustainable clothes in the end.

Krystle: What should we expect from you in the future? More cats, different animals, or something entirely different?

Brandy: In the future I would say it will definitely be a lot more cats but with guest appearances of other animals and ideally plants and other objects. I love illustrating so anything with a print all over it. Also, I'd like to design more practical clothes. I have a dream of designing the perfect 100% water proof rain coat so that is something you will see in the future as I am so determined to make it! What would you like to see?! =^ . ^=

Photo Credit: Hannah Slaney

Find more cats here: Brandy Nicole Easter

Designer of the Month: Naomi Bailey-Cooper

I didn't just choose Naomi Bailey-Cooper as my October designer of the month because she has a Crystal Collection (although I do love that fact). Naomi is an extraordinarily talented young designer, with a half fashion, half science approach. She is just out of university, but not at all short of experience and expertise. Even though I was very much a dreamer at 17, I would have never imagined being able to create an entire collection in a short span of time to show at a fashion show hosted by me. But, Naomi is just that amazing. From there, she's gone on to work in some of the most fashionable cities in the world, including two of my favorites - Milan and Paris. A sponsorship from Swarovski helped showcase her aptly titled collection, Crystal as a fascinating comparison between man-made and organic. I had the opportunity to learn more about the innovative designer and her interesting work with sustainable materials and crystal growth.

Krystle: Where are you from and what’s your fashion background?

Naomi: I was born in the Cotswolds and moved to London when I was 18 to do an art foundation at The London College of Fashion. I decided then that I really wanted to do my BA at Central Saint Martins. But, not getting in the first time, I ended up going to Middlesex University. After two terms I knew it was the wrong place for me so I left, did some work experience and short courses and reapplied to Central St Martins. When they accepted me I was so happy, as I had begun to feel like it was the only place where I could explore my particular style.  Taking the 4 year degree option meant I could do the placement year which was probably the best year of my studies. I spent the year in Milan, New York and Paris and had some really good and some not so good experiences, but I learnt a lot, saw some of the world and met great and inspiring people.

Krystle: At what moment did you know you were going to be a designer?

Naomi: It was when I was 17 that I suddenly became obsessed with fashion design. Not having much awareness of the industry before that, I only knew that I wanted to do something creative. I remember I had been ill and was going through a bad time when my mum bought me a fashion magazine to read in bed to try and lift my spirits. That was it, within two months I had designed and made 25 outfits and put on my own catwalk show by myself. I made about £600 profit through ticket sales and used that money to pay for a short course at Central Saint Martins.

Krystle: As a recent graduate and young designer, what sort of aspirations do you have for the fashion industry?

Naomi: Since graduating, I’ve realized that I don’t really want to be a fashion designer as such.  As a 17-year-old, I fell in love with designers like John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gaultier. I know the names are a very clichéd, but I find designers of that generation really wanted to do something that had never been seen before.  My feelings are that the industry has changed within about the last year and a half and it’s currently not the right platform for what I want to do. I have always been very absorbed with real innovation and future design rather than just making clothes for the sake of it. I suppose my aspirations for the fashion industry would be for it to engage with scientific and technological advances, just as other design disciplines are doing.

Krystle: Your designs are very gorgeous and dramatic. How would you describe the Crystal Collection? Who is it made for?

Naomi: Thank you! For me, the original statement I wanted to make was luxurious sustainability. I was cautious not to make clothes that used sustainability as its main selling point; instead the aesthetic appeal had to be its selling point. It had to offer something extra. To me, it didn’t make sense that there were all these brand new sustainable materials coming out that were completely bespoke and very expensive, but they weren’t being used by the companies who actually want bespoke fabrics and could afford it. For example, making clothes out of the wool from a British rare breed is very sustainable because it encourages the preservation of that breed. The materials are rare and very luxurious and to me, these are the selling points of couture.  

So I created a collection of six outfits which were largely all hand sewn, and really exploited that word ‘couture’ and what it meant. Taking the idea of one-off, I wanted to create completely bespoke embellishments. I grew my own crystals straight onto fabric using aluminium sulphate – for me it was also a design solution when thinking ‘how could you attach embellishments without sewing them on?’ I wanted the collection to be able to biodegrade, so all the materials – from the fabric itself to the fastenings and thread are made from natural materials. It was a nightmare sourcing all these things! I remember sending my helpers out many times to try and source a concealed zip which didn’t include any synthetic parts. Luckily, most of my collection was sponsored so it wasn’t expensive for me; I only ended up spending about £1000.

Krystle: You seem to be using such innovative methods for sustainable fashion. Tell me more about working with wild peace silk and crystal growth.

Naomi: Actually, the material I really wanted to use for my collection was spider silk, but it was still in development. Instead the collection is made from reclaimed duchess satin, as well as bamboo and wild peace silk. The embellishment is mostly my own grown crystals, but I incorporated Swarovski elements who were one of my sponsors. I had dreamed of sponsorship from them ever since my placement year, and felt that in the collection, it really highlighted the difference between the man made and the organic. It was wonderful working with such luxury embellishments and I made sure I used every single Swarovski stone I was given – literally! 

My own grown crystals were very temperamental; I had to create a specific environment and temperature as well as precise chemical measurements. I really needed a lab environment to get them to their full potential.  Instead I grew them in my bedroom, half poisoning myself! The wild peace silk itself was also a nightmare because it was from India and the orders kept being translated incorrectly. In the end I had to find a different supplier last minute for most of it. Plus, a lot of these fabrics, especially the reclaimed ones, wouldn’t take natural dye well. I didn’t know at all what I would end up with in the end and had to just make do, but in a way I didn’t mind it being so ad-hoc, although it was stressful at times the whole point was that it was organic.

Krystle: Have you discovered many other designers working with these materials?

Naomi: No not really. I know that designers such as Lanvin and the PPR (Gucci group) have recently been making some things for the red carpet with luxury sustainable fabrics. From a scientific point of view regarding my crystals, there are people like Helen Storey and Suzanne Lee who work developing fashion through biological sciences.

Krystle: Can we get a hint on what you plan to unveil within the next year?

Naomi: I’m currently developing some materials using microbiology and looking at genetically engineered plants. It is with a view to it being used practically in the design industries so it is still very early days and needs further scientific collaboration and funding. I’m planning to continue onto postgraduate research study within the next year, so I suppose what I’d unveil would be my research project title.

Visit her website here: http://naomibaileycooper.com/

Top 3 Sustainable Designers of LFW SS13

1. Victim Fashion Street

2. Mich Dulce 

3. Charini

Designer of the Month: Lusmila McColl, mccoll&clan

A brand new designer based in New Jersey, Lusmila McColl is not taking her time to ease into the fashion world. Launched this year, Lusmila has already showcased her mccoll&clan collection in various parts of the world and is quickly gaining a fan following. She started designing and sewing as a child and now hopes to bring her love for feminine fashion and beautiful Harris tweed to women in the US and internationally. I touched base with her to see what's on the horizon for the fresh sustainable fashion designer.

Krystle: You’re a brand new label! What are the most challenging and exciting things that have happened for you this year?

Lusmila: It seems that I am delightfully being ‘bombarded’ with a bit of both: challenges & exciting things. 

Definitely my biggest challenge is finances and being a ‘one-woman’ juggling act. I know I am most likely not alone in this respect, but I also do not let my meager means stop me from gliding forward and being positive. It helps to have a cheerleading team, too.  Sometimes there is the voice that says “I wish I had a backer! I wish I could hire some help”. I normally just thank that voice for sharing that with me and keep on keeping on.

I feel the most exciting thing for me that has happened is establishing new relationships and connections with people through the networking/social media sites. Word of mouth (a nom de plume for ‘grassroots’ marketing/PR in my opinion).

Krystle: What do you enjoy most about finally taking your creative talents to form a business?

Lusmila: I really love it all. I love researching for SEE (sustainable eco ethical) fabrics, I love researching for inspiration for new themes and collections, I love seeing it come to life; AND, most of all, I love the creative collaborations that transpire with other like-minded, conscious people who are using their talents to facilitate the well-being of the planet and its inhabitants. That is my primary purpose: to create with intention and to do my small part to expand on the beauty, the joy, the kindness and the peace that is already inherent on this playground called Earth.

Krystle: You’ve showcased in both London and Brooklyn. Which city do you think is more receptive to the eco-fashion scene?

Lusmila: Definitely London. I think it being a physically smaller area of land, there is much more awareness in the British culture about waste, about the environment, about the effects of their purchases and products on the greater good.

Though, for me, in the U.S., I feel it is my responsibility to assist the people here who are on the fence about the whole thing. I enjoy lecturing and speaking on conscious consumerism and sustainable fashion. I love to help people feel that ONE person CAN make a difference. That one becomes many; and, I believe, that is inherent in a founding principle here. 

Krystle: What type of girl wears mccoll&clan?

Lusmila: The mccoll&clan muse is courageous, vivacious, charismatic, conscious, feminine, fun, and flirty. She embodies the phrase “to thine ownself be true”. The clothing just magnifies that. Like a beacon on a lighthouse.

She is also someone who wants style that retains its style no matter how many times or years you wear it. That was one of the main reasons I took this pastime passion into professionalism. I would have pieces several years old and people (both men & woman) would stop me on the street and say “I LOVE that jacket” or whatever the item is that I am wearing.

Krystle: Which piece from your current collection is your favorite?

Lusmila: Oi, that’s a toughie…I guess, seeing I have to make a choice, my favourite piece is the black quilted jacket with the bows at the waist and the neck. I am really into playing with bows and tying things up. Still not out of that phase yet…

Krystle: Your pieces are very feminine. Are you quite girly yourself?

Lusmila: I definitely am a super-goofy giddy girl all the way. I think I must have stopped growing at 8 or something. LOL. Now, Do I dress that way? No, not all the time. Do I LIVE that way? Yep, definitely. If you walked into a department store and needed to find me: I would most likely be in the little girl’s section ogling and oohing at all the super girly styles and cute clothes. My best friend, the other day, said I am so campy. At first, I was insulted. But now, I embrace my campy & cute persona. I stopped denying it.

Krystle: In what ways do you hope to grow, and what should we expect to see from the brand?

Lusmila: In EVERY way.

Of course, first things first: I am focusing on getting the brand name out there and building more awareness, while I get the logistics of producing the collection in a sustainable and ethical way. It’s time to sell it.

There are so many ways in which I wish the company to grow.  My friend Dino used to say to me “when you dream, dream big, Lusmila and include OTHERS in your dream”.  That ultimately is what excites me: that this is not a growth process I will do alone, that I will get to invite other like-minded creative people. It feels so magical and adventurous! Like Dorothy when she began her journey in Oz: She may have started out alone, but she gained friends along the way. I believe fashion can make such an incredibly positive and lasting impact on the world for the greater good of all. I am just doing what I can with what I have and finding others who wish to join me in this journey.

As far as what to expect: expect my next collection to be in Technicolor. Seriously. Lately, I have re-kindled my love of Technicolor films…think Doris Day and Rodgers & Hammerstein. Definitely more bows…I’m not done with taking that theme to its fullest expression.  All made with consciousness and care. 

Designer of the Month: Athena Bentila, MuMu Organic

The popularity of sustainable fashion is big in the UK, picking up speed in the US, and on the agenda for many designers in other parts of the world. But, in Greece there are few fashion professionals working on the transition to the ethical initiatives that our world needs. Greek designer and owner of MuMu Organic, Athena Bentila is the first to make major strides for sustainable fashion in her country. I interviewed her to learn more about her line and the industry in Greece.


Krystle: How do you think the artistic influence of your cofounder inspires your designs?
Athena: As a designer, I am very much inspired by nature and by art. So, naturally his art does inspire me significantly.

Krystle: What is your favorite aspect of designing?
Athena: I mostly like to design dresses that are easy to wear, that are fresh and feminine, with simple lines, but adding some interesting details on them.

Krystle: Your dresses are so playful and feminine. What inspires that style?
Athena: As I said before, I get inspired by nature to design my dresses. And the woman is one of the most beautiful and delicate beings of nature.  My dresses are designed to highlight the beauty of a woman.

Krystle: How do you hope women will feel while wearing your dresses?
Athena: I hope they will feel special thinking that they are wearing a beautiful dress, but more importantly, an ethical dress. I hope they will feel proud of themselves for being able to contribute to the protection of the environment by choosing an Ethical MuMu organic dress.

Krystle: What is the sustainable fashion industry like in Greece? How does it feel being the first producer of women’s organic clothing?
Athena: MuMu organic is the only ethical label in Greece.  I feel proud to be the first designer living and working in Greece who designs clothes from organic cotton and other sustainable fabrics. For me, it is important to do as much as possible to help to protect the environment and raise awareness for as many people as possible. Consumers must know that there are several ways we can protect ourselves and the planet, and buying organic clothing is one of them.
I hope that soon more designers in Greece will like to use eco-friendly fabrics and that more and more consumers will be familiar with the ethical clothing and the benefits they have to our skin and the planet.

Krystle: Do you think working with solely organic fabrics is more challenging than the more commonly used materials? Why/why not?
Athena: It is definitely more challenging to work only with organic fabrics as it is something new and innovative for my country. I strongly believe that ethical fashion is the future of fashion.

Krystle: What should we expect to see this autumn?
Athena: In this autumn’s collection MuMu organic designs are classy and stylish and combine organic cotton with luxurious silk fabrics.

Find a pretty dress of your own here: http://www.mumusyros.gr/

Designer of the Month: Daisy Harris-Burland, Dumpster Couture

Attending Brighton Fashion Week in late May/early June was a refreshing change to the extremely busy fashion week events that take place in London. There, I discovered the unbelievably talented Daisy Harris-Burland, south coast based designer and creator of sustainable fashion brand Dumpster Design. Two fashion lines stem from the brand—the more casual Dumpster Apparel and my favorite, Dumpster Couture. The couture line unites structure and softness, creating feminine, yet edgy gowns and dresses. They hold beauty capable of drawing in the viewers eye to look at every curve, and every detail. I had a chat with the light-hearted Daisy to learn more about her unique source of inspiration.

Krystle: What first inspired you to start designing? What’s the most exciting thing about being a designer?
Daisy: Everything inspires me, really. I bet everyone says that, but really it’s true. Although, I'm not one to flick through fashion magazines and get hugely inspired or riddled with ideas. It’s more like I go to the scrap yard and see an old engine and actual salivate when I see it’s only a tenner! I love the intricacy of engines and car mechanics. How the structure of the materials in their raw state can be so delicate and detailed just fascinates me and I really try and portray that amount of detail in my work. What’s great about being a designer is constantly being able to push my work to its limits—sometimes it works and sometimes it is an epic fail! It’s all about stretching the boundaries.

Krystle: How would you describe your couture collection?
Daisy: There’s only one word I can think of to express what I'm trying to achieve through my couture collection, and that’s 'limitless'. I’m trying to show how far you can take a material and stretch it and manipulate it into something completely different. Showing that anything has the potential to be transformed into something beautiful and daring.

Krystle: Do you have a favorite piece in that collection? If so, what do you love about it?
Daisy: My favorite piece is the 'clean sweep' dress. It’s made entirely from jay cloths, transforming them into something elegant and beautiful. It looks fit for a fairytale.

Krystle: Where do you find the materials you use, and how do you decide which ones to work with?
Daisy: I source my materials from anywhere, if it’s a company’s left over scraps of packaging or old deckchair material. Dumpster really focuses on the intricacy that can be created from such unusual objects. Working with the material, experimenting, seeing what fits and looks good. Every material is so different and you never know how it will respond to anything you try. The design then starts to create itself, always changing in structure and style as the building process continues. All working on the mannequin, never ever with a pencil and paper!

Krystle: How do you feel when you see people wearing something you’ve designed?
Daisy: Magnificent! Creating a bespoke garment is a very personal process, so when I see a client wearing a dress I have created for them and them being overjoyed with it, it feels incredible.

Krystle: If you weren’t a designer, what would you be and why?
Daisy: I’d be a stunt double for action films. No doubt.  My guilty pleasures are motorbikes and top speeds. Hopefully I’ll be able to merge my two loves of designing and daredevil somewhere along my career line! I'm nothing but an 8 year old boy at heart haha.

Krystle: Do you have any upcoming projects or things to look forward to?
Daisy: Lots of exciting projects coming up but nothing I can divulge as of yet, I'm afraid! All to be kept super secret and down low. But, be sure to keep on the lookout as big things are in the pipe line for Dumpster. We're just getting started, baby!

Photo Credit: Tori Clarkson

Find out more about Daisy and see her beautiful garments on her website: http://www.dumpsterdesign.co.uk/

Victim Fashion Street's Sample Sale and Tea Party

One of my favorite designers and F&T's March designer of the month hosted a cute tea party and sample sale on Brick Lane yesterday. Vintage tea cups and sweet cakes were the perfect little editions to the upcycled collections of Victim Fashion Street. My faves were backless cotton dresses with lace trim, and British themed creations.

Designer Meihui and her daughter Freya

Fashion & Film: And Then It Was Gone

And then it was gone is a film created by Claire Pepper to highlight how we use our natural resources, with a subtle suggestion of the materials used in fashion. This video is a fantastic message to promote sustainable fashion and allow people to recognize the effects of fast fashion.


and then it was gone from Claire Pepper on Vimeo.

Felt Like Spring at the Antiform Collection Launch

Elderflower and white wine cocktails decorated with lime, pretty cakes sliced and organized on a plate, the sun shining through the windows, and sustainable fashion lining the walls... Here Today, Here Tomorrow created a pleasant atmosphere to view the spring/summer 2012 collection from eco-label Antiform. But, they disappointingly didn't highlight the collection well enough, as each piece was simply hanging from a rack on the side of the room. Although, if you were to go through each item, you'd see the beauty of some of the flowy skirts and quality of the carefully designed tops. The space of the studio was very limited, so it may have been difficult to showcase them properly. The positive side to that, though, is being able to pay attention to the other goodies in the room. I spoke with Julia Crew from Here Today, Here Tomorrow, who specializes in designing upcycled bags. She talked about her selection of materials she uses, including sourcing second hand leather from upholsters and manufacturers with unwanted materials. Her bags were very cute. One of her bags is pictured below, and if you'd like to see more of Julia's designs, check them out here. If you missed out on the Antiform launch, visit their website: http://www.antiformonline.co.uk/

Antiform SS12 Collection London Launch

Here Today, Here Tomorrow will be hosting the launch of Antiform's latest collection in London! The 20% discount and drinks during the event make it especially worth going.